Sometimes I feel that my processes of designing, pattern drafting and sewing, instead of being a seamless (oops, pun) flow, actually interact with each other in rather a negative, or at least restrictive, way.
Since I stopped using commercially-drafted patterns – pretty much when I left the UK in 2008 – I have noticed that it has had an effect on my sewing production. Having to draft, cut, and then sew seems much much more daunting than using a ready-made pattern – and this is exacerbated, I know, by the fact that I am yet to actually make some well-fitting pattern blocks for myself. The shame!
Additionally, drafting and sewing contain so many variables that there is a fair amount of uncertainty about the success of the resulting product. I know I now make easier design choices for myself on the basis of this fact. I also sew less. On the positive side, I spend a lot more time thinking about what is and isn’t worth the extra effort and really considering what style I want to project. The amount of instant-gratification projects, like T-shirts, that I make has also increased. Gah.
Recently I’ve been thinking about the repercussions of this approach on my designs for college. A lot of my fellow students outsource pattern-making and sewing, making them perhaps less concerned about the logistics. Coming from a sewing background, and with pattern-making training, it is hard for me to design without thinking about the practical side.
Photo via Wikipedia (click for info)
I am trying to break out of that box with some of the designs for my final collection. The collection is based on Hospital de Clínicas José de San Martín, Argentina’s largest teaching hospital. I lived near to the hospital when I first moved to Buenos Aires, and was struck by the contrast between the simple elegance of its exterior to the eerie dilapidated corridors within. Of course, I worked for the NHS for years, so public healthcare is a cause very dear to my heart.
Angry-faced sketch
The white columns on the exterior of the hospital inspired my use of pleats in the collection, and here I played with some fabric to create unusual pleats. The resulting pattern was a headache to draft and looks terribly odd – here’s hoping it works!
As far as progress goes, I have decided to postpone my final design exam until February. As well as four outfits, we also have to hand in a lookbook and video. I want the final project to be as good as I can possibly make it, and this extra time is definitely needed. I am rather disappointed about not finishing in time for Christmas, though, and some problems (not mine – just general chaos) at college have left me feeling demoralised.
Do you ever feel like your practical brain is trying to strangle your creative brain in its sleep?
